From Cairns to Lizard – Stopping along the way

Low Isles

On September 17 we finally left Cairns to continue our trip north towards places where we don’t expect to have much shopping available. We left with enough supplies to ensure we wouldn’t starve and with 650 litres of fresh water, a precious item at the moment. Our water maker (for water desalination) is not working and any additional water to replenish Zenitude’s  fresh water tanks will need to be carried in jugs. We left knowing that Lizard Island has fresh water available for that.

We decided to stop first at Low Isles, famous for tourism out of Port Douglas since it is not far from there. So it was quite crowded when we arrived in the middle of the afternoon and we couldn’t believe it when we found a mooring free and available to us. Marine Parks has installed three moorings there but with the settled weather the other boats seemed to be happily at anchor.

As soon as we were securely attached to the mooring we put the dinghy down and off we went to visit the island where the historical light house is. You can only visit the island during daylight hours to provide privacy for the islands full time residents. When we landed most of the tourist boats were loading the people from the beach and onto their boats for the trip back to Port Douglas, at that point dinghies from other cruising boats started to land on the beach. There is a little track that takes you thru the small buildings in the island which are the lighthouse, the keeper’s house now occupied by the Low Isles caretaker and the assistant keeper’s house that has been converted into a research station.

This complex of islets is unusual as it has a small coral cay (Low Island) and a larger uninhabited mangrove island (Woody Island). Both share the same large coral platform with a sheltered lagoon that provides excellent anchorage. Woody Island is home to thousands of birds and you can hear them at sunset when they get ready for the night sleep. It seems there is a lot of discussion about which tree belongs to whom.  

Mangroves and birds in Woody Island

The lighthouse 

The keeper’s house

Low Island sunset

East Hope Island

From Low Isles we headed to East Hope Island, another outstanding place. There are 2 public moorings there but there is good anchorage space as well. The entrance is a bit tricky but easy with good visibility. 

Arrival at the island was a bit stressful as the starboard engine decided to start beeping just when we were approaching so we had to stop that engine. Later we found the problem was once again an electrical problem and we didn’t lose the engine, just the alternator, resulting in no charging of batteries from that engine. Oh well, back to work on that engine again.

There is a nice beach and we soon went onshore and walked around the island which is quite small. 

Cairns Reef

With settled weather we decided to spend a day at Cairns Reef, a u shaped reef with easy access and great sandy patches to anchor comfortably.

We had great expectations for the snorkeling there but the tides were not helping on that day and visibility was not that good. So, there are no underwater pictures this time. 

Cape Flattery

Our last stop before Lizard, this anchorage is wide and very calm, a great stop for an overnight before the last leg just 18 miles to our destination.

The beach was busy with campers and 4WDs. We’ve been told it is a beautiful beach with white silica sand but we were tired and didn’t go ashore.   

After a magnificent sunset and good forecast for next day we were ready for the last leg, reaching the magic of Lizard Island.

G.

Cairns – A lively time and the family reunion

As we are making preparations to leave Cairns we can say without hesitation we like this town and have truly enjoyed our time here.

It hasn’t been a quiet time; aside from all the normal chores that one does when staying at a marina we have also enjoyed a trip to experience a little of the outback and then of course the wonderful time with the visit of our kids and grand kids.

Veronica and Andrew came first with Ethan and little Caitlyn. They stayed 3 days with us in Zenitude and fortunately the weather was good to go around. We left the marina on a beautiful morning and spent a day and the night at Upolu reef where we were lucky to get the only available mooring. 

It was exciting for Ethan but jumping from the boat into the vast ocean where fish came to check you out as soon as you have a foot in the water was just too much for a little kid. So snorkeling was soon out of the question. Ethan much rather jumped in the dinghy for a ride to the sandy patch exposed in the reef at low tide where he could run and splash.

Fish come asking for food at Upolu

Next day we decided to go to Green Island where kids could spend some time at the beach. The island was crowded as always with hundreds of people deposited there by many big charter boats but the beach was good and the night pretty quiet.

A dinghy ride to the beach in Green Island

On Saturday the second part of the family arrived, Gonzalo and Tania with the kids and not wanting to go insane, Zenitude was abandoned at the marina and we all headed to spend a couple of days at the wonderful Coconut resort where we all enjoyed father’s day and birthday celebrations.

Gonzalo, Tania, Alicia and Mark

In a week’s time everybody went back to their homes and we are back in Zenitude with hectic preparations to leave Cairns towards Lizard Island. As we are planning to receive several friends while in Lizard we are in a bit of frenzy shopping to make sure supplies last for as long as we want to stay there.  

It seems that after many days of strong winds and frequent showers a good window is opening and we should be ready to finally leave Cairns on Thursday.

G.

A trip to Queensland Outback – Driving along the Savannah Way

For a change we left the salty life behind and took a short trip to experience a little of the Australian outback. 

Undara Volcanic National Park – Touring the lava tubes

We arrived at Undara Experience installations just in time for lunch. We were nicely surprised by the beautiful surroundings and the great service offered by the staff. We had taken one of the packages including lunch, dinner, a night at a swag tent, the bush breakfast and 3 tours. It was a busy time which we immensely enjoyed. Check for the offerings at: www.undara.com.au - highly recommended. 

The restaurant 

Setting for bush breakfast

Champagne Sunset

Beautiful sunset in the bush

The restored train carriages

Having dinner at the train carriage restaurant

Lots of wild life around 

The swag tents

Touring the lava tubes

Chillagoe – Mungana Caves National Park

After Undara we wanted to get to Chillagoe and the challenge was to find out the best way of getting there. If you travel directly from Cairns there is no problems, just 15 km of dirt road on the 200 km trip, but going from Undara meant taking a 120 km dirt road out of Mount Pleasant. 

Oscar has a good driving record on dirt roads from our time exploring the Argentinian country so after checking the road condition with the locals we set onto the estimated 4 hours trip. Oscar did enjoy the experience. The drive was not too bad even though I wasn't quite happy in some narrow places, luckily being the dry season all creeks were dry. I can imagine you need a 4 WD for this road on the wet season.  There is also no phone coverage and we discovered people carry VHF radios when transiting these areas. We didn't met with anybody going in the same direction but we did met 4 or 5 vehicles going the other way. I was relieved when we finally arrived in Chillagoe. 

We got accommodation at the historic Chillagoe Postoffice building that has been converted into a charming guesthouse (www.chillagoeguesthouse.com.au/). As we were the only guests we had the house all to ourselves which was fantastic. The Pub across the street is one of the few places where to dine. Here we also took a package for all the tours which we split in 2 days to visit all 3 of the main caves. Quite interesting as each cave has its own characteristics. 

The charming guesthouse

The balancing rock

Does it move?

Beautiful cave formations

Here is the little bat

  

We left thinking we'd like to do more of this interesting Australian outback. 

G.

Arriving in Cairns – Bluewater Marina

After spending the night in Russell Island the next morning we were pondering if we should stay for another day. A quick look at the forecast and we decided against it. The day promised to be good but the wind was going to pick up in the evening and make the place very uncomfortable for spending the night.

We made arrangements for a marina in Cairns, left the mooring and motor sailed all the way to Yorkeys Point, where the entrance to Bluewater Marina is located. We were lucky to get a spot in this marina as it seems places for a catamaran at this time of the year in Cairns are at a premium.

We plan to stay at the marina for about a month touring the area while we wait for a family reunion here in early September.

G.   

Russell Island – Superb snorkelling while passing by

We left Eddy Reef at 7.00 AM to be able to arrive early at Russell Island with enough time to explore. Instead we should have waited until 10 AM to get good visibility of the various bommies on our way out. We knew the way and the closer bommies to avoid but still it wasn’t the right thing to do. We got away with it but made a mental note not to try that again.

We were hoping to find available the only mooring to suit Zenitude as the place does not look too great for anchoring. We got lucky, nobody there when we arrived. The alternative would have been to keep going a bit farther up and anchor at High Island, which seems like a good place to spend the night with the forecast prediction of a calm night.   

As soon as we hooked the mooring the dinghy went down and off we went for a fantastic snorkel tour. There was almost not current with the low tide slack and we were able to snorkel the south tip of the island as the seas were calm and wind had died. Visibility was outstanding and so was the reef even with the sun hiding behind some clouds. At the moment the sun came out the reef looked even prettier. This was another time when I really missed my underwater camera. Definitely we’ll have to get a new camera when we are in Cairns.   

On the way back from snorkelling we made land on the beach and had a bit of a walk. There is a camping site in the island and the beach is also very beautiful, the sand is covered in many coral pieces that make it hard to walk over.

We could only see two people in the island for the whole time we were there but apparently there is a catamaran that visits frequently bringing lots of tourists to spend a day in the island. I guess we were lucky to have this place to ourselves.  

Russell Island

G.

Eddy Reef – Zenitude goes exploring

With settled weather on Monday morning we leave Dunk Island in a north easterly direction towards Eddy Reef with the idea to explore the area and choose a suitable place to spend a day or two at anchor. A dive operator on Dunk Island recommended Eddy, saying it was easy, great snorkelling and quite safe to stay. Oscar quickly checked the Marine Parks zoning map to confirm spearfishing is allowed.

There are many reefs in the area so we know we have more than one option to explore, but I have to admit that unlike Oscar, I don’t have the explorer’s mind. Actually I like to have at least one or two waypoints to show the way into a suitable anchorage, one that hopefully many people have tried before. It’s not the case this time, no waypoints, no anchor symbol in any cruising guide, it is an adventure in the reef. 

The next best thing is Google Earth pictures overlayed on the chart. We had looked and overlayed Google Earth on our OpenCPN charts but this isn't as helpful as we like because we couldn’t get good quality pictures. But Oscar has studied the chart and he knows where he wants to go.

We are motoring with no wind and some clouds shadow the waters but three and a half hours and 20 miles later we arrive at our approach waypoint and all clouds have dissipated. At 10.30 in the sunny morning visibility is perfect, we keep going towards shallower waters, the reef ahead is easy to make out and soon the depth goes down to 10 meters and the bottom is clearly visible as well. 

We know timing is the worst possible for the tide, the high tide just went by at 10 AM which means we have to make sure we don’t run aground, a scary scenario when you know there is not going to be more water to float you back until next high tide about 12 hours ahead. The chart shows some sand banks but we never see less than 6 meters under the keel. We are seeing some coral heads, they all seem quite deep.

We are in the area where Oscar would like to anchor and Zenitude slides slowly alongside the reef in calm waters. Ahead we see clear turquoise water indicating there is sand in that bottom which also seems clear of coral bommies. Depth is around 8 meters and Oscar is not quite happy. He keeps going further ahead ever so slowly, while I'm carefully watching the bottom to make sure we don’t run over a coral patch. I get anxious and wish we soon find the right spot, Oscar says patience is the key to find the right place, and a bit further down he finds a very nice sandy area at 6 meters depth. We drop the anchor, patience paid and we have found a nice spot. Now I relax. 

Anchor Point at 17 46.3704 S 146 26.0600 E

We are not alone, there are plenty of little fishing boats all around, some seem no bigger than a dinghy and I realize maybe this is not such a wild adventure after all. Not long after our arrival a sailboat approaches the reef and finds anchorage quite far away from the coral in the sand bank.

We enjoy lunch and then get ready for our snorkeling tours. Visibility is outstanding, the coral is so pretty we call it Octopus Garden, reminding of the Beatles song. Colorful fish all around and we see the biggest clam we had ever seen, it is so big it appears to be a rock at first sight, with coral trees growing out of it, but then you look closer and see the colors and you realize it is indeed a clam, and it is alive. I wonder how old it is. 

I am terrible upset because my underwater camera have just stop working. This is the second Olympus that fail us, this one was just one and a half years old. So there are no pictures of this amazing underwater world this time. 

Oscar checks the anchor, holding is excellent in sand

Zenitude at anchor in Eddy Reef

Another outstanding sunset and our neighbor for the night

Next morning we study the weather. With another settled night ahead we decide to go and check out the Frankland Islands Group.

G.

In Dunk Island – Sunset Bar, Prawns and a Water Taxi ride

We came to stay for a couple of days and a week later we are still here. It’s a beautiful island and despite the rolliness with the swell that enters the anchorage usually at high tide we decided to stay until a new window opens for a trip to a nearby reef. We got good references on Eddy Reef from the scuba dive operators and would like to stop there on our way to Cairns.  

Dunk Island is part of the Family Group of islands and is located about 2 miles east of Mission Beach in the continent. A water taxi runs frequently and brings people for a day visit or a camping trip, but access is very easy by boat, and some people come on their own little boat or even by canoe. There is a resort that is not operating since damaged by cyclone Yasi (February 2011). Plans to re-open the resort are slowly underway, nobody knows when but nowadays the Sunset Bar is open and operates on weekends offering quite good food to be savoured under the shadows of the palm trees in beautiful Brammo Bay beach.

Having dropped anchor on a Saturday afternoon we soon went ashore and enjoyed a beer while chatting with the bar owner. He was busy preparing what looked like yummy hamburgers and we promised we’ll come back for lunch on Sunday. Next day was weather perfect and the beach bar was crowded. There was live music playing reggae nicely. We ordered the special of the day for lunch, a very well served portion for 2 of prawns with homemade sauce and 2 cold coronas. There might have been about 18 large tiger prawns and we ate them all, what a treat. After that we had a very relaxing time at the beach before heading back on board. 

   

Next day was a work day for Oscar as he decided to go searching for a fix for our engine oil leak. It was easier than he anticipated. Having taken the water taxi to Mission Beach, rented a car (they came to pick him up at the beach) and went on search of needed spare parts and tools. In Tully he found them together with detailed explanations from very friendly staff. Having finished early he decided to visit Innisfail, a lovely country town where David from Seabreeze had recommended a professional mechanic that gave Oscar excellent advice.

Having finished earlier than expected there was time to visit Woolies for some needed fresh items before taking the water taxi back to Dunk. With the right tool and parts he got right to work that same day and in half an hour the engine was running and no leaks! We couldn’t thank David enough for the invaluable help and hope we’ll see Seabreeze around sometime soon! 

Island Spirit Water Taxi

On the way to Mission Beach

Tuesday came and weather was still perfect. We went around the island with the dinghy and found a nice spot for spearfishing. Oscar went looking for lobsters and I went snorkeling looking for nice and colorful fish, we found neither but the snorkeling was nice anyway in a quiet and amazing surrounding. The bottom was covered by a mix of small coral heads and lots of rocks, just the right bottom for lobsters, so Oscar was happy to stay in the area.

There are a couple of fishermen trawlers that come some days to spend the day at the anchorage setting sail again at 6.00 PM as they fish all night. Thinking of tiger prawns, Oscar took the dinghy and went to have a chat with one of the fishermen, he came back with a bowl full of prawns, extremely fresh and at a very convenient price. 

We had prawns for dinner the next 3 days (chili prawns, Spanish rice with prawns and prawns with cocktail sauce), great dining!

We are now watching the forecast and it seems we can leave Monday morning for a couple of days at the reef. In the meantime we continue enjoying the beautiful surroundings and the amazing sunsets.

G.