Exploring Lifou - Les Iles Loyaute

We left Baie du Prony when the storm cleared and decided to go Lifou, part of the Loyalty Islands, skipping Isle de Pines which we may visit if we have time when back from Vanuatu. On the south of New Caledonia you get out to sea thru the Havannah Passage that needs to be negotiated at slack time due to strong currents. There is a very nice anchorage, Port du Boise, at the entrance of the passage, very convenient to wait for the right time in the pass. We came a day ahead and spent the night there. It is tricky to find the right spot to anchor but the cruising guide has excellent explanations and we found 3 meters of water to anchor at: 22.21.20S, 166.57.16E. Turned out to be a great place to rest after our ordeal at Baie de Carenage. We left the next day at about noon, crossed a rolly passage at slack time and a after an uneventful overnight trip, arrived at beautiful Baie de Santal in Lifou.

Our French friends told us not to go to We, the main town where there is a small marina but come to this bay instead. It was great advice, this place is fantastic, beautiful and quiet with lots of room to anchor in a sandy bottom. There are a couple of white sand beaches and a small village that belongs to the tribe of Drueulu. Here we met another French boat, Crisaloha, with Marcel and Carol and together we went to pay respects to the Chief of the tribe in the village, a formality that requires you to take a small present to the chief and ask his permission to stay, fish and wonder around. They are all very formal and welcoming. They took us to a kind of communal area where the people was having breakfast and quiet conversations. The chief gave a welcoming speech, offered tea and coffee, asked lots of questions, gave us permission to stay and invited us to a wedding that was taking place the next day. All of this in French and of course was very nice to have Carol and Marcel there to translate for us.

Drueulu Village

Oscar with Carol and Marcel - Crisaloha and Zenitude on the background

There are a couple of stores and if you are lucky to be there when the bread arrives it is possible to buy baguettes. There is a bus that takes you to We (main town) daily at 7.00 AM which you also have to be lucky to get. This is the only bus, otherwise you need to hijack to get there, which we did as it seems we just missed the bus. Everybody here is very nice and helpful so this is not a problem.

In We we rented a car for 3 days and went around the island. The island is so lay back that you really need to make an effort to find the people that offer services. We wanted to visit several caves but we just managed to get to one with the only guide that was willing to take us in a tour, Mr. Albert. He is a very nice guy, his family owns a big property in Tingeting and they have plans to expand their tourist business. He speaks very good English and took us to visit the Diable Grotto which is part of their property. An easy hiking to very interesting caves. We'll post the pictures when we have internet again. If you ever happen to come to Lifou you can contact Mr. Albert (telephone 45.17.93) for a visit to the caves or a water adventure in his boat.

Another highlight of our car tour was Baie de Dockin, a bay at the bottom of impressive 40 mtr high cliffs overlooking water so clear that is easy to see the many coral reefs below, big caves that are amazing to snorkel. Definitely a place to come with Zenitude. Another bay, just across Santal, is called Xepenehe and is where the big cruise ships coming from Australia or Vanuatu deposit thousands of people once or twice a week. The ship was there when we visited and lots of people were wondering around the Quay where there is a small snack bar and some huts with souvenirs, open only when the big cruise ship is there. I wonder what is it that these tourists get to see in Lifou.

Baie de Dockin

After a week in Baie de Santal we decided to sail to We to stay at the marina for a couple of days, replenish our fresh water tanks and try power washing the last remains of red mud still attached to part of our chain. Another story to be published soon.
G.

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